Atheris chlorechis Care by Derek Morgan

Atheris chlorechis
Western Bush Viper

Pel 1851
VENOM TYPE: Hemotoxic
LD50: Unknown
ANTIVENOM: None
Length: Birth: 6 - 8 inches
Adult: 18 - 30 inches
RANGE: Western Africa, from Guinea east to Ghana
Introduction:
Atheris chlorechis is a small-sized, mostly nocturnal and somewhat arboreal species with maximum sizes ranging from 18 to 30 inches in length, with males being much smaller than females. There is only one species recognized at this time with no subspecies. The body color is uniform green with white paired chevrons down the dorsal ridge. The amount of white chevrons is usually the only variation with this species, with males sometimes exhibiting more pattern than females. Babies may be born green, blue, gray, or yellow, but will all change to adult coloration by one year of age. The scales are keeled but are much smaller in size than the scales of other Atheris species and this lends to a cleaner look. The head is broad and flat and the body is long and lean. The tail tips are yellow or cream colored at birth and are used for caudal luring by young animals. The tail is also prehensile and used to hang from brush to ambush their prey.

Caging:
It is recommended that all animals be caged individually, even though aggression and cannibalism have not been witnessed with this species. Males and females can be testy during breeding cycles and care should be taken to avoid any unnecessary bites. Tall, spacious cages are needed for this species to exhibit their natural arboreal tendencies, though the degree of arboreal time may vary from individual to individual. They have also been kept quite successfully in tubs in rack systems with just enough height given for the animals to get off of the floor of the cages. Being ambush predators, they can be quite inactive at times, but may roam their cages at night during other times.

Contrary to previous information, I have witnessed all of my bush vipers drinking from water bowls and I supply one with fresh water at all times. Supplemental misting may be beneficial, especially to fresh imports not accustomed to the water bowl yet.

Environmental Conditions:
Substrate: Anything from newspaper to Repti Bark to cypress mulch has been used successfully with this species. Substrate typically comes down to keeper preferences, but cedar mulch should be avoided with all reptiles.

Hidespot: May be used more frequently by certain individuals, but not at all by others. I always offer a hide spot, whether it is a half-moon bark hide, or just a dense cluster of plastic plant leaves.

Humidity: Is extremely variable in the wild with this species. Through much of their natural range, this species goes through extreme drought periods followed by heavy rain periods. They are very adept at handling any level of humidity, as long as the extremes are not visited for extended periods of time. If kept too dry or too wet for extended periods, they will develop respiratory infections. I keep animals at normal room levels of humidity for my region throughout most of the year, and that will range from 40-60% humidity. During natural rainy cycles here (spring and fall), I allow the humidity to rise and I provide more misting of the individual cages, as well.

Temperature: A thermal gradient should be offered, with the warm end of the enclosure in the lower 80’s (F) and the cool end in the low to mid 70’s (F). Offer both a hidespot and a roost on both ends of the spectrum so that the snake doesn’t have to pick a proper roosting spot over the proper temperature that it wants to be in. Nighttime drops of 5 degrees or so are acceptable, if desired to do so.

Feeding:
In captivity, many bush vipers will feed to obesity, especially females. It’s far too easy for the keeper to eagerly feed an animal that so readily enjoys being fed, but this is usually to the detriment of the animals. Fat animals do not breed well and do not live long. Appropriately-sized rodents are the typical diet in captivity and they are higher in fat content than the frogs and lizards that make up most of their diet in the wild, so feed accordingly. Babies may be fed weekly to encourage rapid and healthy growth, but as they mature, feedings should decrease in frequency. I feed juveniles every 10-14 days and adults may go 3-5 weeks between feedings, depending on the time of year. Males may go off of food entirely for months at a time during the off season, but will feed regularly at other times of the year.

Neonates typically will take to baby mice (pinkies) with little problem, but some babies may be stubborn. Small neonates will need the pinkies cut into parts for them to feed on or may need to be tease fed. Tease feeding involves tapping the baby’s tail, body, or nose with the prey item in order to entice it to eat. Also, being nocturnal, problematic feeders may respond better to nighttime feedings.

Venom:
While considered mildly venomous at one time, it has since been proven that Atheris bites in general are serious bites. There is no antivenin manufactured specifically for the species, but it has been reported that Echis polyvalent has been effective in treating bites of other Atheris species.

Courtesy of Derek Morgan
ArborealVipers.com